Starlink Standard Gen3 in an RV or Cabin: Cable, Wall Socket, Power and Mount, Done Without a Hole in the Window Seal

The Starlink Standard Gen3, the kickstand dish, is what most people mean by Starlink. It is bigger, faster and hungrier than the Mini: 75 to 100 W, a 48 to 57 V PoE feed, and a proprietary waterproof cable with a heavy RJ45-style plug that does not fit a normal keystone. Most installs route that cable through a window and call it done. Here is how to do it properly.

Know your dish

Gen3 is the kickstand model with the flat white router. The original actuated Standard, the Performance Gen2 and the Performance Gen3 use different cables and connectors; nothing in this guide fits them. Check the label on the back of the dish before ordering anything.

The cable

Gen3 ships with 50 ft; 150 ft and 15 ft are available. The cable carries power and data, so it cannot be spliced or extended with ordinary Cat6 in the middle. The right way to cross a wall is a female-to-female bulkhead that mates the Gen3 plug outside to a standard Cat6 patch cable inside, which is exactly what the IP68 Gen3 pass-through socket does. Cut a 1-1/2 in hole, mount the plate with the gasket, plug the dish cable in outside and cap it when stowed, plug a Cat6 patch cable in inside and run it to the router. No proprietary cable inside the wall, nothing to reseal when the dish comes down.

Power

The Gen3 router wants 100 to 240 V AC and outputs the PoE. In an RV that means an inverter, which for a 100 W load is acceptable, or a third-party 12 V to 56 V PoE injector rated at least 100 W, which lets you retire the Starlink router entirely and use your own. The Mini's 48 V converters and injectors are not enough for a Gen3; it needs the higher voltage and about double the wattage. Fuse the injector at the battery on 12 AWG minimum; a Gen3 at 100 W is 9 A at 12 V, more during acquisition.

Mount

The kickstand is for the ground. For a roof or cabin use a pipe or J-mount adapter that takes the dish's mast socket, on a flat section with sealing washers, or a ridge mount that straddles the peak. Keep a clear 100 degree cone to the northern sky; a chimney or a roof AC unit in the cone costs you dropouts every night.

Bonding

The Gen3 socket's plate is metal. On a metal vehicle, bond it to the chassis with a 10 AWG jumper; on a cabin, bond the mast to the building ground per NEC 810.21 with a listed clamp and 10 AWG copper to the grounding electrode system, and add a listed Ethernet surge protector at the wall entry. A dish on a mast is a lightning attachment point whether or not it is bonded; bonding just decides where the current goes.

Parts

• Gen3 IP68 pass-through wall socket, CT-SK0110
• Cat6 patch cable, 7 to 25 ft, bare copper
• Roof or pipe mount for the Gen3 mast socket
• Ethernet surge protector, gas discharge, at the entry
• 10 AWG bonding jumper, ring terminals, listed clamp
• 12 V to 56 V 100 W PoE injector if going inverter-free

The socket, patch cables, bonding hardware and clamps are in stock in Oxnard. Send your dish model and run length to CS@ConversionsTech.com and engineering will confirm the connector fit before you drill.

Starlink is a trademark of SpaceX. Conversions Tech is an independent distributor of compatible accessories and is not affiliated with SpaceX.