Starlink Solutions

STARLINK® SOLUTIONS • POWER, MOUNT & INSTALL

Run Starlink anywhere — without the inverter tax.

DC power conversion, PoE injection, battery banks, mounts, and cable-entry hardware for Starlink Standard and Mini — engineered for RV, marine, truck, and off-grid installs. Running the dish on native DC instead of an inverter cuts power draw 30–40%, which is hours of extra battery every day.

RV & marine electrical · Technical library

• 30–40% — power saved on native DC
• 12/24/48 V — systems supported
• IP67/68 — outdoor-rated kit
• 95 Wh — portable battery runtime

Choose your power path

1. Vehicle 12V/24V, quick setup (Mini): Use a 100W USB-C PD car adapter with a DC trigger cable — plugs into any lighter socket or hardwired PD source, powers the Mini directly, zero inverter. Best for trucks, overlanding, and rental rigs.

2. Permanent RV / marine install (Mini): Use a 12V→48V step-up converter (IP68) or a 150W GigE PoE injector — hardwired to the battery bank through a fused circuit, with Ethernet to your onboard router. The dish becomes just another DC load on the panel.

3. Portable / off-grid: A 95Wh 19V battery bank runs the Mini for hours away from any vehicle — remote work sites, camps, and emergency comms. Recharge from the included 25.2V charger or any solar generator.

Standard dish note: Standard (Gen 2/3) draws more than Mini — use the dedicated PoE injection path sized for its wattage; never guess with generic PoE gear, as pinouts differ from 802.3 standards.

Hardwire a Mini to 12V in five steps

Step 1 — Plan the circuit. Feed from the house battery or a fused distribution block, not an accessory circuit that dies with the ignition.

Step 2 — Fuse at the source. 15A blade fuse within 7" of the battery for a 100W load on 12V. Fuse protects the wire, so size it to the wire.

Step 3 — Size the wire. 14 AWG to 10 ft, 12 AWG to 20 ft keeps voltage drop under 3% at 8A. Undersized wire is the #1 cause of dish reboots.

Step 4 — Add the switch. A 5-pin illuminated rocker in the DC panel gives you a proper dish kill switch — no crawling to unplug connectors to reboot.

Step 5 — Convert and connect. Wire the step-up converter or PoE injector output to the dish cable, coil a service loop at the entry, and test before sealing anything.

Mount it right

Magnetic (55 lb pull): steel roofs, fast on/off, holds at highway speed — the overlander default. Suction: glass sunroofs, boat surfaces, rentals — zero drilling, re-seat daily. Fixed outdoor kit: permanent RV/yacht installs — vibration-rated, survives every mile.

Roof pass-through, done clean: drill on a flat section away from framing, install the CAT6 cable-entry bushing, feed the cable with a drip loop outside so water can't track in, then seal the flange with self-leveling lap sealant — not silicone, which peels off rubber roofs. The bushing beats a bare grommet because it clamps the jacket and takes the strain off the connector.

Quick answers

Does DC conversion void the Starlink warranty on the dish? Third-party power affects only the power path you replace; the dish itself is unmodified. Keep the factory PSU to restore stock configuration anytime.

How much battery does a Mini use overnight? Roughly 20–40W average — on native DC that's about 15–30Ah from a 12V bank over 8 hours; through an inverter, add 30–40% on top.

Can I use my own Ethernet cable? Yes — bare-copper Cat6 only, never CCA, especially on PoE runs. Our entire Cat6 line is 100% bare copper.

Which fuse for a 24V truck system? Half the current of 12V for the same wattage — a 100W load on 24V is ~4.5A; a 7.5A fuse on 14 AWG covers it with margin.

Starlink® is a trademark of SpaceX. Conversions Tech is not affiliated with or endorsed by SpaceX; our hardware is independently engineered to work with Starlink equipment. Pair your install with RV & marine electrical, bare-copper Cat6, and dealer pricing for fleet volume.